Q: How
do you make your scent last longer?
A: "Applying a body lotion or cream with the same
scent as your fragrance followed by applying the fragrance itself will make the
scent last longer without its being too strong or overwhelming," says
Karyn Khoury, senior vice president of fragrance development for Estée Lauder.
"I've had people do the layering on one arm and spray the fragrance alone
on the other and compare. They always see the difference in the strength and
lastingness with the layering technique."
Q: Should
you put fragrance on bare skin or after you're dressed? I've been told both.
A: "The best is to apply the fragrance directly
onto unclothed skin," says Christopher Sheldrake, deputy perfumer for
Chanel in Paris. "This method creates an alchemy between the skin and the
perfume, which is going to express the scent in a more personalized way. On the
skin, the perfume gets warmer — it rises with your temperature, which isn't the
case of a perfume applied directly on clothes."
Q: Why
does the same fragrance smell different on me and my friend?
A: "Fragrance comes to life on the skin, so it's
understandable that individual differences in chemistry impact how it
smells," explains Khoury. "Everything from diet to skin type can
affect the way the individual facets play on the skin. Although the overall
impression remains the same, certain notes may be heightened or blurred on
different people." To ensure you'll like the way something smells on you,
always test it before buying it.
Q: What
fragrances do guys love? Hate?
A: Usually, the way a guy responds to scent has to do
with context. If he smells something that triggers a happy memory — say, a
fruity floral from a tropical vacation spent with you — it will turn him on,
says Alan Hirsch, MD, director of the Smell and Taste Treatment and Research Foundation,
in Chicago. Conversely, if he encounters a whiff with unsexy associations —
like his grandma's powdery floral — he'll probably be less into it. So grab
samples and ask him for feedback.
Chris Eckert/Studio D
Special Offer
Page 2 of
3
Q: What's
the best way to test perfumes?
A: "Try to hit the department store when it's
less crowded and chaotic, usually before noon, so you can focus, and make sure
you do not have on any other scent that can interfere," says Lev Glazman,
founder of and perfumer for Fresh. "Also, ask for a sample, then apply it
after a shower. This way, you will have a true connection with the
fragrance."
Q: If
you put on products with scent, like hand lotion and shampoo, then perfume,
what will you end up smelling like?
A: "People can only detect three different
olfactory components of a mixture," explains Dr. Hirsch. Says Glazman,
"Eventually, the lesser-scented products — usually the shampoo and lotion
— will fade, and the main fragrance will take over, and that is the perfume
that you applied."
Q: What
are some key areas on the body to spray on a fragrance so the scent is likely
to last?
A: Besides the usual areas, like your inner wrists and
neck, many perfumers recommend the nape (back of the neck), an often overlooked
spot that can be very sensual. "Every movement releases the scent around
you," says Glazman. "It's very long-lasting and seductive."
Q: Is
there a kind of fragrance out there that is easy on people with allergies?
A: "It depends on your sensitivity,"
explains Dr. Hirsch. "True fragrance allergies are rare. However,
susceptibility to the effects of perfumes is common, especially if you have
asthma." If you get a headache or itchy skin after applying perfume,
switch to a single-note essential oil, which may be less irritating than a
multinote blend. "Or wear lightly scented lotion in place of concentrated
parfum," suggests Khoury.
Jeffrey
Westbrook/Studio D
Special Offer
Page 3 of 3
Q: What's
the fix if I spritz on too much fragrance but don't realize it until I'm
already out?
A: "That's a great question!" says Khoury.
"It's very difficult to compensate for applying too much — it's like using
too much of a particular spice when you're cooking. Try to rub on an unscented
body lotion if you've applied the fragrance to your arms or neck — the lotion
will help diffuse it — or wash where you've applied the fragrance with an
unscented soap."
Q: Is
it possible to become immune to your scent so you can't smell it as well?
A: "Yes, you can become immune to scent,"
says Dr. Hirsch. "This is a phenomenon where your nose can't detect the
perfume you put on after three or four minutes, yet others around you will
readily recognize it. Also, if you wear too much regularly, the continued
exposure may, in fact, impair your ability to detect that aroma." You can
avoid this by going easy on your spritzing, says Ellen Molner, a perfumer at
Givaudan Fine Fragrances.
Q: How
can I transition my day fragrance to nighttime?
A: "It's probably impossible to erase what you
are wearing during the day without spending a good deal of time or taking a
shower," says fragrance expert Andrew Goetz, of Malin and Goetz apothecary
in NYC. "So look for something you can layer on top of it that blends well
or has complementary notes." A good rule of thumb is to put on lighter
fragrances with fresher notes in the morning and richer, sensual notes at
night. "For example, a citrus loaded with very fresh notes in the a.m.
could be topped with a musk or sandalwood so it becomes a more sensual evening
composition," says Glazman.
Q: Does
scent ever expire? I never can seem to get through a whole bottle.
A: "Yes. Oftentimes, three to six months after
opening the bottle, the alcohol and aldehydes [organic compounds in fragrance]
evaporate and change the nature of the smell," says Dr. Hirsch. "This
causes it to have more of a chemical-like smell." To preserve its
lifespan, store your fragrance away from direct sunlight in a cool, dry spot.
If you're not going to use it regularly, seal it in a plastic bag and place it
in the fridge — it'll keep it fresh for a few extra months. The best advice?
Buy something you really love so you'll actually want to use it every day.
How do I find a new
perfume that I’ll really enjoy?
It can
be difficult. “Finding the right fragrance is almost as hard as finding the
right man,” complained Allure magazine.
You may
feel that there can be no logic in your choice of perfumes because your sense
of smell is so emotional, but the fragrances you most enjoy will probably
belong to just one or two of the fourteen different fragrance families.
Like
most good things, it takes a little effort to find a new perfume that is just
right.
Start
by understanding the difference between the fragrance families. Play with the Fragrance Wheel.
How many
different fragrances can I try without confusing my sense of smell?
Three.
Although you will find your sense of smell tires more quickly from similar
fragrances than fragrances of very different character, you risk confusing your
sense if you test more than three different scents at one time
How can I make
my fragrance last longer?
The
secret to long-lasting fragrance is ‘fragrance layering’. Build up layers of
scent on the skin by using different forms of the same fragrance - perfumed
soap, bath oil or gel, body lotion or cream, dusting powder and eau de
toilette. Each reinforces the impact of the other to quadruple the life of your
favourite scent. Layering, or “fragrance dressing” as it’s sometimes called, is
also a clever way to wear a fragrance that’s too overpowering for daytime use
How should I
store my perfume?
Keep
your fragrances in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat sources
(such as radiators). Extreme heat or cold will upset the delicate balance of
the oils and change their scent. Once a bottle of perfume is opened, use it. A
spray lets in less air and evaporates slower than a bottle with a cap but even
the finest essence fades with time. If you prefer one fragrance in winter and
another in the summer, you’ll extend their life between seasons if you store
the bottle in the vegetable crisper of the refrigerator
Do women have
a keener sense of smell than men?
“Yes”,
says Richard L. Doty, Director of the Smell and Taste Centre at the University
of Pennsylvania, USA. But, he adds, the male/female differences may well be
cultural - or hormonal. Women in our society tend to use their sense of smell
more often than men. They are encouraged to take an interest in cooking,
flowers and fragrance.
A
woman’s sense of smell also fluctuates more than a man’s, which makes her more
aware of fragrances and odours. These fluctuations seem to be influenced by the
release of certain hormones during the menstrual cycle. Oestrogen increases
smell acuity in the first half of the month, and again in the early months of
pregnancy, while progesterone decreases the ability to smell in the last half.
How does our
sense of smell work?
Odour
molecules pass through the nasal passages to two tiny patches located behind
the bridge of the nose. These patches are made up of millions of special
olfactory or smelling sensors. The odour molecules dissolve in moisture and
bind to tiny nerve hairs on the cells. Recent research has found that every
cell is equipped with as many as a thousand different receptors, each designed
to respond to a small group of different odours. These send messages about the
odour to the limbic system, the part of the brain that governs moods and
certain emotional responses.
While
the limbic system is largely devoted to smell, it also influences our hormonal,
metabolic and stress responses and is the emotional centre for sexual desire,
rage, fear and joy. That’s why fragrance is such an emotional experience.
Why can’t I
smell the fragrance I’m wearing after a while?
Several
of the senses tire after constant stimulation. The sense of smell classically
cuts off within minutes. Because you can’t move away from your own perfume, you
become used to it. You may think it has disappeared, but others can still smell
it.
At what age do
we begin to appreciate scent?
From
the moment we are born. At two days old, babies already turn to the
recognisable scent of their mothers and show arousal or aversion to other
smells.
How can I
improve my sense of smell?
Nose
training! Exercising your nose improves your sense of smell, just as exercising
your body makes you fitter. To exercise your sense of smell, wear different
fragrances of varying intensities. Change your fragrance wardrobe from day to
night, from winter to summer.
To
sharpen your sense of smell, imagine the colour of each fragrance, each smell.
In a recent study, Dr Avery Gilbert, the man behind National Geographic’s
world-wide Smell study, found that people tend to associate distinctive scents
with different colours. In his study, people imagined patchouli to be a brown
scent, while the spicy note of cinnamon was thought of as a red smell.
Take
time, too, to smell the fragrance of flowers, the green notes of leaves and the
air on a rainy morning. The more you use your nose, the more sensitive your
sense of smell will become.
What should I
do if my sense of smell becomes muddled?
If
your nose is tired and says “enough”, let it rest. Take a deep breath and blow
all the air through your nose to clear it.
How many
different fragrances can I try without confusing my sense of smell?
Three.
Although you will find your sense of smell tires more quickly from similar
fragrances than fragrances of very different character, you risk confusing your
sense if you test more than three different scents at one time.
Can fragrance
change my mood?
Yes.
One of the most remarkable properties of fragrance is the way it instantly
affects our emotions. Studies have shown that fragrances can stimulate or calm
us, encourage a good mood or bad, shape positive or negative memories and
induce sweet dreams. Aromatherapy - the art of healing with fragrant essential
oils - is based on the idea that aroma has the power to affect mood.
Fragrance
has long been recognised as a powerful and subtle tool for rebalancing the mind
and the body. “Every perfume is a medicine” says the old Chinese proverb.
Ann
Gottlieb, a fragrance consultant who has worked on the development of Calvin
Klein’s fragrances, said in a recent interview that “Much of what’s used in
products that make aroma therapeutic claims is based on tradition and folklore
rather than science but, more and more, research is pointing to our ability to
alter moods. Soon, fragrance is not just going to make you smell good, it will
have a very real physiological effect.”
In
a recent study, peppermint and lily of the valley were found to increase
alertness at work. One Tokyo company pipes peppermint into the office to
improve productivity. Another company sends different fragrances through the
air conditioning system to enhance staff productivity. A whiff of citrus helps
get the day off to a good start. An unobtrusive floral fragrance aids
concentration in mid-morning and afternoon. A touch of cedar seems to relieve
tiredness during the lunch break and in the late afternoon.
Have the
psychological effects of perfume been scientifically proven?
Scientists
are increasingly confirming what aroma therapists and perfumers have always
believed: that fragrance affects psychology. By measuring brain wave activity
and heart rate, researchers have proved that certain scents such as lavender
and chamomile are calming, while others like neroli and bergamot are
stimulating. In one test, computer keyboard operators typed 14 per cent more
strokes per hour with a hint of citrus or cedar in the air, and made 21 per
cent fewer errors. Current studies designed to pinpoint the specific mood
effects of fragrances are focusing on a method of psychological evaluation
called “mood profiling” which helps identify which fragrances make us feel best
Do certain
personality types like different types of scent?
Yes.
We buy fragrances not only because we like their smell but also because they
reflect our personality. According to studies carried out by the psychologist
and sociologist Dr Joachim Mensing of the Research Institute for Applied
Aesthetics in Freiburg, Germany, “extroverts” look for stimulation from the
environment and tend to find fresh, green fragrances activating. “Introverts”,
who prefer less stimulation, find Orientals harmonious, while emotionally
ambivalent people - dreamers - prefer floral, powdery scents. But, a word of
caution: this work was researched in Germany, on a fairly small sample of
people.
Is perfume an
aphrodisiac?
Scent
can certainly make you feel sexier but there is no scientific evidence to
suggest that fragrance is actually an aphrodisiac. Smell is obviously linked to
our sexuality and some experts believe that hormones released from glands in
the groin and armpit act as powerful sexual attractants in the way that
pheromones released by animals do. The sense of confidence the right perfume
can give, plus the attractive chemical cocktail it helps create, can certainly
be a great turn-on.
Why is scent
so sexy?
“The
nose may really be a sexual organ - it may be more closely related to sexual
response than vision,” suggests American researcher, Michael Shipley. Clearly,
the sheer confidence and heightened sensuality produced by the right fragrance
makes us more receptive to sexual feelings and more attractive to others. “When
a woman is in the arms of a man she loves, in the dark of the night, the
perfume she is wearing plays a very important role,” says Jean-Paul Guerlain.
Why does a
perfume smell wonderful on a friend, yet do nothing for me?
Because
each of us has our own “scent print” that will influence the development of a
perfume. This odour-identity is the sum total of our genes, our skin chemistry,
diet, medication intake, stress level and, probably the most important factor
of all, the temperature of our skin.
It’s
not as simple as saying that fragrances react differently on different people
because of their ‘body chemistry’. The warmth of our skin is critical. Some
people have more pores per centimetre than others, or more layers of fat in
their skin. These and other factors affect the warmth of skin, which in turn
influences the scent of a fragrance.
We
are all created equal until we use fragrance.
I’ve been
wearing the same fragrance for years, so why does it seem so different now?
Probably
because your personal chemistry and body temperature have changed slightly.
Perhaps you are on a low-fat diet or taking some new medication. Have you
changed your brand of contraceptive pill? Are you pregnant? Are you exercising
more frequently? Has your skin become drier? Are you using more moisturiser?
Fragrance
formulae rarely change but diet or medication changes produce new chemicals
that come through the pores and can change the fragrance balance on your skin.
Try
using a body cream or bath oil that matches your fragrance as an oil perfume to
see if it overcomes the problem. If not, change fragrances for a while.
How does my
skin type affect fragrance?
The
oils in skin dissolve and retain scent molecules. Therefore, the oilier your
skin, the more intense a fragrance will be and the longer it will last.
Is it true
that fragrance reacts differently on blondes, brunettes and redheads?
Probably.
True blondes often have a dry skin that lacks the oils needed to hold scent. As
a result, fragrances evaporate more rapidly from their skin.
Brunettes,
on the other hand, usually have skin that holds fragrance well because it is
much richer in natural oils.
True
redheads generally have skin that’s fair and delicate, characterised by fine
pores and a slightly higher body temperature. Their skin releases the true
notes of most fragrances but its warmth tends to make fragrances fade quite
quickly.
Is it true
that fragrance reacts differently on blondes, brunettes and redheads?
Probably.
True blondes often have a dry skin that lacks the oils needed to hold scent. As
a result, fragrances evaporate more rapidly from their skin.
Brunettes,
on the other hand, usually have skin that holds fragrance well because it is
much richer in natural oils.
True
redheads generally have skin that’s fair and delicate, characterised by fine
pores and a slightly higher body temperature. Their skin releases the true
notes of most fragrances but its warmth tends to make fragrances fade quite
quickly.
Will eating
spicy foods affect the way my perfume smells on me?
Again,
the answer is yes. The scent of your fragrance doesn’t change, but the scent of
your skin does. Most of us forget that our skin is an excretory organ. Spicy
foods spice up the oils secreted through the pores of your skin. So, spicy
skin, different fragrance!
What is the
correct way to try a fragrance?
Apply
a few drops or the lightest spray to your wrist or the back of your hand. Don’t
just sniff a flacon because perfume comes to life only on your skin. Wait a few
moments. Give the fragrance time to bloom on your skin, to let the notes ‘talk’
to you
Glossary
What does
‘perfume’ mean?
The
word comes from the Latin, meaning “a sweet-smelling fluid containing the
essence of flowers and other substances”. But perfume has its origins in
ancient Roman ritual. In the temples of Rome, crushed flowers, leaves, wood
shavings, spices and aromatic resins were thrown onto burning coals as
offerings to the gods. Their scent was released through smoke ( per fumum).
What is a
‘nose’?
A
perfumer who creates perfumes, whose olfactory skill composes great fragrances,
sublime harmonies whose notes haunt the imagination of men and women the world
over. “To be a ‘nose’ is not anything mysterious,” said the celebrated perfumer
Edmond Roudnitska. “The thing you have to reach is not only the memory of a
smell, but the memory of a smell in combination - otherwise you are just mixing
at random and that is not creating. The creation of a perfume is cerebral, not
nasal.”
Roudnitska
always insisted that “time is essential to a creative perfumer. It can take
several years to come up with a great perfume. You can’t keep sniffing the
scent you are working on day after day until you reach perfection ... often you
must leave the perfume for months and then come back.”
What are
ozonic or marine fragrances?
Fragrances
with a fresh, marine character which conjure up images of the beach and the
great outdoors, the tang of sea air.
What does the
term living flowers or headspace mean in perfumery?
It’s
a relatively new technique that recreates the true-to-life fragrance of a
living flower. Researchers use ultra-sensitive equipment to analyse every
fragrant molecule of the perfume given off by a living flower. They produce a
‘fingerprint’ or a chemical profile of its fragrance. By comparing the profile
of the living perfume with the profile of the flower’s essential oil, perfumers
can then identify the parts of the oil lost during the extraction process. With
this knowledge, they are able to put back the ‘angels’ portion’ into the
essential oil and recreate the real scent of the living flower. Antonia’s
Flowers, Prescriptives’ Calyx and Giorgio’s Red were the first fragrances to
utilise this new technology. They pioneered a new generation of florals that
seemed softer yet fuller, a development that continues to influence perfume
creation
What is the
history of eaux de colognes?
Around
1680, Giao Paola Feminis, a barber from a village in Northern Italy, double
distilled esprit-de-vin to obtain 75/80% proof alcohol, in which he dissolved
lavender, rosemary, and cold-pressed bergamot and lemon oils.
Feminis
called his elixir, Acqua Mirabilis (Miraculous water). It was the first eau de
cologne but it did not acquire that name for a further 130 years.
In
1709, Johann Maria Farina, a Cologne perfumer, introduced Jean Maria Farina
acqua mirabilis. Its success encouraged other Cologne perfumers to imitate the
product. Over the next century, more than 2,000 copies appeared, almost all
called Farina.
In
1792, Wilhelm Muelhens introduced Franz Maria Farina acqua mirabilis, renamed
4711 in 1845
Roger
& Gallet’s Jean Marie Farina appeared in 1806.
In
1810, Napoleon decreed that medicinal formulae had to be registered. The
Cologne perfumers, reluctant to reveal their acqua mirabilis formulae,
registered their products as perfumes, eaux de Cologne.
When perfumers
talk of the diffusion of a perfume, what do they mean?
Diffusion
is the ability of a scent to reach out from your skin and surround you and others
with its aura. The ability of a scent to travel through the air - its
effusiveness - is the test of a great perfume.
What does
“fragrance life” mean?
The
time it takes a scent to evolve, from the moment it first touches your skin,
through to its last lingering traces.
What are
fragrance “families”?
Fragrances,
like wines, are grouped into families. Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs, Rieslings
and Chenin Blancs, for example, are different families or varieties of white
wine. Each is superb in its own right, but usually there will be one that you
prefer.
Likewise,
Floral Orientals, Soft Orientals, true Orientals, and Woody Orientals are all
fragrances families within the major Oriental classification. They are all
Orientals but each fragrance family will have a characteristic scent, a
different personality.
Instinctively,
you will prefer fragrances from some families, and dislike perfumes from
others.
What is the
difference between ‘perfume’ and ‘fragrance’?
To
most people, the words essentially mean the same, and you can safely use one or
the other. You will find that usage varies from country to country: in the
United States, fragrance is the more common description; in England, scent or
fragrance. In France? Parfum!
The
fragrance industry tends to refer to the most concentrated form of a scent as
perfume or parfum in contrast, say, to the less concentrated eau de toilette or
cologne. Perfumers, on the other hand, use the word specifically to describe
their fragrant creations, their perfumes.
What is the
difference between Perfume, Eau de Parfum or Parfum de Toilette, Eau de
Toilette and Cologne?
Each
represents a different ‘concentration’ of actual perfume oil in a scent.
Perfume, parfum or extrait is the most concentrated, longest-lasting fragrance
form with 12 to 30 per cent perfume oils. The newer Eau de Parfum or Esprit de
Parfum interpretations are almost as concentrated as the traditional extraits,
but the Parfum de Toilette or Eau de Toilette (a Cologne, in the United States)
is a lighter strength, with a level of fragrance anywhere from 4 to 18 per
cent. In Europe, the word Eau de Cologne describes a very light level of
fragrance, only 1 to 3 per cent oil.
What is the
difference between a “signature” scent, a “celebrity” scent and a “designer”
scent?
A
signature scent is a scent by which someone is recognised. When Marilyn Monroe
confessed that she wore nothing but Chanel No. 5 in bed, that fragrance became
etched in the collective memory as her ‘signature’ scent.
Celebrity
scents are generated by media personalities rather than a fragrance house:
Elizabeth Taylor’s Passion (1987) was the first successful celebrity fragrance.
Her White Diamonds (1991) remains one of the top-selling fragrances in the
United States.,
Designer
perfumes, on the other hand, are created by and linked to fashion houses or
designers. Chanel No 5 is the enduring symbol of a designer perfume.
What is the
difference between aftershave and cologne?
Colognes
or eaux de toilette are meant for your body, aftershaves for your face. Eaux de
toilette (or Colognes) are blended with more fragrance - anywhere from 5 to 15
per cent essential oils - while aftershaves have a lighter scent, usually
around 2 to 4 per cent, less alcohol (30 to 65 per cent) and incorporate
soothing emollients and calming antiseptics.
How do the
fragrance families help me choose the right perfume?
Because
our sense of smell is so emotional, we assume that fragrances are confusing, a
jumble of different perfumes with no rhyme or reason.
It’s
not true. When you classify the fragrances you have worn, you’ll probably find
that they fall mostly into just two or three families. Once you know the
families you especially like, the Fragrance Manual will show you which other
fragrances fall into the same family.
How should a
woman choose a fragrance for a man?
Men’s
fragrances are grouped into exactly the same families as women’s. Therefore,
try a few men’s fragrances from the same families as your favourite scents. Of
course, the man for whom you are choosing needs to be comfortable with the
fragrance you select, but if he loves your fragrance, you’re on the right
track.
How do I
select a fragrance as a gift for a woman?
One
sure way is find out which fragrances she especially likes, the names of her
favourite perfumes. Once you know those magic names, an informed consultant
will be able to help you select another fragrance from the same family or
families of fragrance that she especially likes.
If
you don’t know the names of her favourite fragrances, ask a consultant for
advice. Describe the lady for whom you’re buying the gift - not her hair colour
(will it be the same next week?) nor her age (we all know women who’re old at
20, others who are vibrant at 70), but her style of dress, her personality, her
activities. Ask the consultant to suggest three fragrances, just three, never
more. Test their scents on testing papers. Take your time. Which fragrance
‘talks’ to you? Try not to be logical. Relax. Let your instinct take over. Nine
times out of ten, you’ll find that your nose will select the perfect match.
How do I find
a new perfume that I’ll really enjoy?
It
can be difficult. “Finding the right fragrance is almost as hard as finding the
right man,” complained Allure magazine.
You
may feel that there can be no logic in your choice of perfumes because your
sense of smell is so emotional, but the fragrances you most enjoy will probably
belong to just one or two of the fourteen different fragrance families.
Like
most good things, it takes a little effort to find a new perfume that is just
right.
Start
by understanding the difference between the fragrance families.
nice ideas
ReplyDeletewhat a nice view
ReplyDelete